The red spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is a tiny insect that feeds on plant juices. Most of the time it is difficult to get rid of them. The most suitable time for this may be autumn when they increase slightly in size and become more orange. But regardless of the time of year when you decide to get rid of these parasites, you can do this with certain organic products. If there is a spider mite, the methods of control can be varied. From the first time usually does not help much.
WHAT A SPIDER MITE LOOKS LIKE – A PHOTO AND DESCRIPTION
First we need to find the insects. You need to know what a spider mite looks like – a photo will help you to “know the enemy by sight”. A red spider mite can start indoors or out in the garden – they’re not particularly picky about what kind of plant to eat. Most indoor plants are prone to becoming infected with red spider mites, especially if they grow in stressful conditions such as hot, dry air or insufficient watering and top dressing. Signs that infection has occurred include:
- leaves have pale yellow, red or silver spots on them;
- Very small white spots (red spider mite eggs) and the mites themselves are visible on the underside of the leaves at a glance.
- If you see shiny white membranes between the stems and leaves, this is also a sign of tick infestation, but usually it is the last stage.
If you can’t see the insects but suspect they’re on the plant, you can try to knock them down on a piece of white paper. Be prepared that the pests, once on the paper, will immediately rush to the edge to get underneath it, as they will perceive it as a plant sheet.
A SPIDER MITE – MEASURES TO FIGHT WITH IMPROVISED MEANS
If you find that you have a spider tick, you should take action immediately. This can be done by using improvised means. Increased humidity. The red spider mite does not tolerate high levels of moisture, so spraying and watering plants abundantly is a good way to get rid of insects and prevent future infections.
Prepare a soap solution for treatment or buy a ready-made organic mixture in a shop. Spray the sprayer under the leaves and wipe the surfaces of the sheets.
Spray with insecticide soap and water. This can be harmful to plants (phytotoxicity), so you need to either know exactly which plants may react poorly or do a one- or two-sheet irrigation test.
FURTHER CONTROL OF SPIDER MITES
Further struggle against a spider mite will come down to create for it of adverse conditions of existence. Remove all leaves that show signs of defeat. These leaves should be destroyed so that they do not contribute to the spread of ticks. If the plant is very heavily infected, you should consider sacrificing it for the health of the rest of the garden.
If the plant is in the garden, you should irrigate the entire garden once a week with a hose.
It is essential that the plants are fed with fertilizer and water in sufficient quantities and in a timely manner to give them the strength to protect themselves in the future.
Plants should be monitored regularly to prevent infection at an early stage.
Remember that ticks demonstrate a preference for certain plant species – roses, lilies, quince, apples, blueberries, boxwood, juniper and all indoor plants.
TIPS ON HOW TO GET RID OF SPIDER MITES
The red spider mite, as a rule, lives in tropical and temperate climate zones and successfully takes root in greenhouses. Therefore, our advice on how to get rid of the spider mite will include some aspects of plant maintenance.
You can plant predatory insects in your garden that will eat the spider mite. You should consult a gardener’s shop about this. Note that this pest control option is quite costly.
A WARNING BEFORE FIGHTING A SPIDER MITE
Now you understand how to fight a spider mite. But this war can last a long time. And all this time it is necessary to observe measures of personal safety. All insecticides have poisonous effects. You may inadvertently poison yourself or harm others around you. Therefore, be careful, and only in this case, the fight against the spider mite will be safe for you. The option of switching to more toxic solutions for treatment can be justified only if the organic agents have not helped. In particularly difficult cases, “Malathion” (carbophos) is applicable.
Things you will need: insecticide soap, disposable gloves, sprayer, appropriate fertilizers for plants.